South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
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logo Track and Trail river camp / Bush experiences in the Luangwa Valley

Track & Trail River Camp
Safari & photography specialized

Safaris South Luangwa National Park

Track & Trail River Camp and its staff is committed to provide the best possible wildlife experiences for travellers from all over the world. Our safari guides are one of the best educated in the Africa and will provide you with an informative and inspiring interpretation of our Luangwa ecosystem. They want to share unique opportunities with you, to witness the ever-changing panorama's of the Luangwa Valley.

Who is the boss

One night my girlfriend and I walked from the Lime tree bar & restaurant area to our chalet when we saw a small spotted genet (family of the mongoose) about eight metres from us eating flying termites which were attracted by the light on the walking path. Our spot light was facing the animal and as we came from behind  we could get very close. We observed the genet eating for almost five minutes when the genet jumped up more than a metre of the ground and quickly run off in the opposite direction. Closer investigation revealed that a mongoose (slightly bigger than the genet) had been the cause of the intimidation. The mongoose started the feast where the genet had ended.

Your worst nightmare

I was deep asleep when some different alarm calls woke me up at 03.00 in the night. It was elephant, baboon and antelope, a species, which I could not recall at that time. I went outside with a torch to have a closer look. Just outside the door I saw a hyena, his head completely covered with blood, coming from the bushes and running behind one of the staff houses. Hyenas are usually quite skittish if it comes to a human encounter.

I pointed the torch at the bush where the hyena was coming from. I saw a male puku (medium sized antelope) staggering vaguely. I decided to go in the house again for nature to take its course. By the way the puku moved it was already badly injured. At 06.00 in the morning when I woke up the first thing I did was checking on the puku’s left over. I did not expect to see what I did that morning. The puku was lifted up from the ground with its hind legs. It was stuck between two braches of a tree and the hyena was eating almost his whole hindquarter. The most bizarre moment was still to come when I investigated the place and tried to figure out what must have happened. Suddenly I saw the puku lifting his head and looking me right in the eyes. The animal was in panic again and at the same time I realized what the animal has gone through the past few hours. The puku was probably chased by the hyena, then cornered between a wall and some bushes. The puku then decided to jump through the branches of a tree and the hyena probably pulled the animal done from the back at the same time. That is why the animal got stuck in such an unlucky position that the hyena could eat the puku alive.

It was in a way my fault to have frightened the hyena so it could not have finished the job. But at closer examination of the puku the hyena must have had enough to eat and decided to go.

There I was with a puku in agony, screaming and trying to release himself. I decided to help nature in this stage. It is not pleasant to kill an animal like that but there was no other option.

Problem solved

On a normal evening we were having some beers at the bar (this is a half open area) when somebody said: look there is a small snake in the corner. Everybody looked to find the snake and at the same a shadow of a bird landed and flew up again with the snake. The owl, probably a scops owl which can be heared calling over the camp almost every night, was that quick that nobody saw the snake properly to identify it.

Almost lost a neighbour….

Next from our house we have a big dead tree which is home to a couple of broadbilled rollers for the last few years. A beautiful bird with a bright purple breast, yellow bill and light blue belly. I lifted my head following the shrill sounds of the roller. There was a good reason for the roller to be in stress as a little banded sparrowhawk was chasing the roller at full speed. It was beautiful to see that the sparrow hawk tried to get above the roller for him to strike. But the roller stood his ground and after some time I lost them in the top of the tree not knowing what happened. The next day there was no sign of the roller and the following day as well. Because the sparrowhawk was that close to the roller all the time, I thought the roller was gone, but after the third day I saw the couple again together on the dead tree next to my house.

Thirsty lioness

During a game drive we were watching some lions at the Luangwa river bank. Some vehicles with tourists were taking pictures of two resting females. One of the tourists lost a plastic bottle of mineral water close to a young female. The female was unable to resist the temptation of checking out that shiny object next from the vehicle. She grabbed the bottle and showed it to her mam or big sister, but she was not impressed at all. After playing with the bottle for a while she left it for a more interesting event…two males were heading towards the lionesses.

Pangolin for sale?

I received a message from one of my workers that somebody wanted to offer me a pangolin for sale. Not thinking of how rare that animal is I asked the guy: how much? He answers 3000$ USD. Than I realised that we are talking about an endangered species which is very rarely seen in the area. I immediately pretended to be interested and asked the worker to introduce me to that man. The worker said: Well he is coming at lunch time to me with his wife because she was the one who found the animal while she was collecting wood. I already called somebody from the local Anti-poaching unit and explained what was going to happen.

And just past lunch time I saw three people walking to my door with a bag in their hand. I immediately told my girlfriend to get the Anti-poaching team here by phone, while I walked outside at the same time showing I was relaxed and had no wrong intention. Unfortunately the phone number was engaged all the time so I had to delay the buying process by examining the pangolin and asking silly questions to the poachers. Finally she had contact with the Anti-poaching unit and it took another 10 minutes before they arrived. On the arrival of the vehicle one person run off. The other two were too old to run away and were arrested. The Pangolin was still in good shape and released shortly after into a protected area of the park.

Track & Trail River Camp - PO box 72 Mfuwe Zambia - +260 6 246020 - info@trackandtrailrivercamp.com

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